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llllliillllllllllililllllllillliillllllllllllM 



Designs and Instructions for 






Hardanger ^^^ Embroidery 




Trade Mark 

T. B. C. 



•• UtOISTERtO ^^ 

Published hy X. BUETTNER & CO., I-corvorated 



Art Needlework Specialists 
CHICAGO. ILLINOIS. 



Importers and Manufacturers 
HAMBURG, GERMANY. 



PRICE. 25 CENTS 



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1/ 



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Book No. 8930 



T. B. C. Instructions and Designs 



for 



f s 




<!r-f 






or 



NOP^EGIAN 



EMIMIOIDI'IRY 



Copyright J 9 15 by 

T, Buettner & Co., Inc. 

Chicago, III. 

Designs by 
Nanna T. Boedker 



Published by 

T. Buettner (^ Co., Inc. 

The Art Needlework Specialists, Importers and Manufacturers 
HAMBURG, GERMANY CHICAGO, ILLINOIS 



Book No. 8b28— T. B. C. 

Book No. 8629-T. B. C. 

Book No. 8630.— T. B. C. 

Book No. 2808-T. B. C. 

Book No. 2809— T. B. C. 

Book No. 5257— T. B. C. 
Book No. 8631- T. B. C. 



Also Publishers of the following: 

Instructions and Designs for Crocheting in Connection with Novelty Braids. 

Instructions and Designs for Crocheting in Connection with Coronation Cords, 

Instrictions and Designs for Crocheting Edges,Insertions, Medallions, Yokes,ctc. 

Instructions and Designs for Hedebo Embroidery. 

Instructions and Designs for Hardanger Embroidery. 

Instructions and Designs for Irish Crochet Lace. 
Instructions and Designs for Tatting. 

WHOLESALE ONLY 









.itirMnlioTi^ for VV'< 



Hardanger embroidery must be made on a material of which the warp and woof threads 
are the same thickness and evenly spaced in weaving. 

All Hardanger work is done by counting threads of the cloth. 

The solid embroidery or ornamental stitches are always made with a heavy thread for 
which size 5 T. B. C. Coton Perle, sizes 2 and 3, NUN'S Eleo Perle Hardanger Twist and 
Saxonia Embroidery Thread are especially adapted. 

The openwork is made of finer twisted threads such as No. and No. 1 NUN'S Eleo 
Perle Hardanger Twist. 

Best results are obtained by using a frame or embroidery hoops when making solid or 
ornamental stitches. 

The cutting of threads and the openwork must be made out of the frame or hoops, for 
when the material is stretched tight it is difficult to draw the threads and to weave them 
together. 

THE SETTING. 

Squares of straight stitches are made over as many threads of the material as you cut 
away later. These squares of solid embroidery are made all around and serve as a border 
to the openwork. This is called a set- 
ting. 

Make 5 straight stitches covering 
4 double threads if 4 double threads of 
the material are to be cut and drawn, 
or 7 straight stitches if 6 double 
threads are drawn. The stitches are al- 
ways parallel with the threads that 
are to be cut off and drawn. 

Fig. 1 shows the setting of a square. 
The vertical edges are bordered by 
squares of horizontal stitches ; the hori- 
zontal edges, by squares of vertical 
stitches. Having finished the squares 
take work from frame and cut threads 
of the material which are to be re- 
moved and draw them out. Cut close 
to the setting stitches. 



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Fig. 2. 



©CI. A 4 161:^5 Fig2-A. 

2 S 






OCT 28 1915 



Fig. 2 shows plain woven bars made of alternated darning stitches. The needle is 
brought up between the center threads, down over the left half, up through the center and 
over right half, etc. This figure shows the appearance of the square in Fig. 1 after some 
of the bars have been woven. 

Fig. 2-A shows bars woven in the same way as in Fig. 2, but with threads drawn from 
cloth in only one direction. 

Fig. 3. Woven bars ornamented with 

post picots as shown in Fig. 3 add much to 
the appearance of Hardanger Embroidery 
and are not more difficult to make than plain 
woven bars. 

Weave the bars same as in Fig. 2. Hav- 
ing made stitch to the right of bar, twist 
thread around needle twice with the left 
hand, insert point of needle same as when 
making left stitch, draw loop thread up so 
as to bring picot close to bar, draw needle 
through and make right picot in the same 
way, or if picots are desired only on one 
side of bar, continue the plain weaving. 




Fig. 3. 



Fig. 3-A shows post picot bars and weav- 
ing same as in previous figure but in a more 
open design, accomplished by drawing out 
more threads. 



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Fig. 4. 



Fig. 3-A. 



Fig. 4 shows woven post picot and plain 
woven bars. The plain bars are ornamented 
with loop stitches. After all bars have been 
woven, start in the corner of square of plain 
woven bars and loop a thread to next corner, 
twist thread over loop twice and make next 
loop. 




Fig. 5 shows groundwork. Make setting stitches 
first, then fill in groundwork which is made over 3 
double threads each way. Begin by bringing needle 
point up at upper right corner of first three double 
threads. Down at upper left corner, up at lower 
right, down at upper right, up at lower left, down 
at upper left, up at lower right, down at lower left. 
Repeat to end of row. then turn work and begin 
second row, needle up at upper right corner of 
next three double threads. Down at upper left, up 
at lower left, down at upper left, up at lower right, 
down at lower left, up at lower left of next square, 
down at upper left, up at lower right, and continue 
back and forth. 



Fig. 5. 

Fig. 6. 
In this fig- 
ure setting 
s t i t ches 
are used 
for orna- 
mental 
purposes 
by work- 
ing over a 
va r y i n g 
number of 
th r ea ds. 
In this 
inst a nee 

over 4 and Fig- 6. 

8 alternately. The open space is formed by 
drawing out all but 2 center double threads 
each way. 




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Fig. 7. 








Fig. 7 shows setting, or- 
namental, scallop and open- 
work which are explained in 
the other motifs. 

Fig. 8 shows festoon 
stitches which are made by 
working two half cross 
stitches parallel on the bias 
over two threads of the ma- 
terial. 

Fig. 9 shows ornamental 
stitches worked over four, 
eight and twelve double 
threads of the material. The 
eyelets are made over two 
double threads each way. 






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Fig. 8. 



Fig. 9. 




For full size illustrations of details see pages 6, 7, 8 and 9. 

5 




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Fig. 13. Shows details of Fig. 10 on page 5. 




Fig. 14. Shows details of Fig. 10 on page 5. 



Fig. 10. TEA CLOTH on page 5. For details see Figs. 13 and 14. 

Made on No. 824 Hardanger canvas. For solid work use No. 3; for weaving and open 
work use No. t<,UN'A Eleo Perle Hardanger Twist. Begin with solid embroidery around 
the open work parts. Cut and draw threads and make the open work ; then the ornamental 
figures. The woven bars in this design are ornamented with Post picots, formed by twist- 
ing the thread twice around the needle. The edge is finished with a scallop shaped same 
as the design of the border. 



Fig. 11. 

SERVING CLOTH 

on page 5. 

For details see Fig. 15. 

Made on white Har- 
danger Canvas No. 824. 
For solid work use No. 
3 ; for weaving and 
open work use No. 
PiUp- Eleo Perle Har- 
danger Twist. Begin 
with solid work around 
the open work parts. 
Cut and draw threads 
and make the open 
work ; then make orna- 
mental design. The 
edge is made with a 
scalloped button hole 
edge and finished with 
loop lace stitches. To 
make the la;tter, loop 
the thread as shown in 
Fig. 15 and fasten with 
double buttonhole 
stitch. 



Fig. 15. Shows details of Fig. 11 on page 5. 

Fig. 12. DOILY FOR SANDWICH BASKET on page 5. For details see Fig. 16. 
Made on No. 824 Hardanger canvas. Solid embroidery is done with T. B. C. Coton 
Perle No. 5. Use ^yi!'* Eleo Perle No. 1 for the lace stitches. Begin with solid embroid- 
ery around the open work parts. Then cut and draw out the threads of the canvas for the 
open work. The eyelets are worked over two threads of the canvas in each direction. The 
rows of festoon stitches are made by working two parallel half cross stitches on the bias. 
The outer edge or scallop is made in the usual Hardanger weave stitch, except the corners, 
which are made with a close buttonhole stitch. 




Fig. 17. BUFFET SCARF on page 10. For details see Fig. 19. 
Made on white Hardanger canvas No. 824. For solid work use No. 3 ; for weaving 
and open work use No. 1 r<UN'5 Eleo Perle Hardanger Twist. Begin with solid embroidery 
around the open work parts. Cut, draw the threads and make the open work; then the 
ornamental stitches. In the small square motifs for the lace work, cut eight double threads 
in each direction, leaving four double threads on each side for the overcast bars; each bar 
is overcast over two threads. In the center of the scarf the bars in the square motifs are 
intersected by branches which also are overcast; these separate the center bars. In every 
other motif add the loop stitch. The scalloped edge is finished with a single row of weav- 
ing with close buttonhole stitches in the corners. 




Fig. 16. Shows details of Fig. 12 on page 5. 









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For full size illustrations of details see pages 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20. 

13 



Fig. 18. BUFFET SCARF on page 10. For details see Fig. 20. 

Made on white Congress canvas No. 1313. For solid embroidery use No. 3. for weav- 
ing and open work use No. 1 ^yi^'i Eleo Perle Hardanger Twist. Begin with solid work 
around the open work parts, then fill in the solid figures which form the design. Cut and 
draw threads of the material for the open work parts. Use the post picot stitch through- 
out the open work parts except where the open work cuts through the figure. 

The edge is made in the regular weaving stitch except at the corners ; these are made 
in a close button hole stitch. 

The design is very lacy and exceptionally handsome. 




Fig. 27. Shows details of Fig. 21 on page 13. 

Fig. 21. CENTER PIECE on page 13. For details see Figs. 27 and 28. 
Made on Hardanger canvas No. 824. For solid embroidery and scallop use No. 5 
T. B. C. Coton Perle; for the open work use No. l<UN'5 Eleo Perle Hardanger Twist. 
Begin with the solid embroidery around the open work parts. Cut and draw out the threads 
of the material for the open work. Open work parts are made with plain woven bars and 
Post Picot Bars. The edge is a plain buttonhole scallop. 

Fig. 22. DRESSER SCARF IN GRECIAN on page 13. For details see Fig. 29. 
Made on white Hardanger canvas No. 824. For solid embroidery use No. 2; for open 
work and weaving use No. I^MH!'* Eleo Perle Hardanger Twist. Begin with solid em- 
broidery around the open work parts. Cut and draw out the threads of the material for 
the open work. The open work parts are all made of plain woven bars. Finish scarf on 
all sides with a plain hem. 

14 




Fig. 28. Shows details of Fig. 21 on page 13. 

Fig. 23. DRESSER SCARF on page 13. For details see Fig. 30. 

Made on mercerized Hardanger canvas No. 8755. For solid embroidery use No. 5 T. B. C. 
Coton Perle ; for the weaving and open work use No. 1 f^WS> Eleo Perle Hardanger 
Twist. Begin with solid embroidery around the open work parts. The eyelets in the center 
figure and border are worked over two threads of the material in each direction, no threads 
are cut for these. 

Finish the long sides with a narrow hem and the two ends with scallop. 

Fig. 24. DOILY on page 13. For details see Fig. 31. 

Made on Congress canvas No. 1313. For solid embroidery use No. 3; for weaving and 
open work use No. ftyi^'^s Eleo Perle Hardanger Twist. Begin with solid embroidery 
around the open work parts, then work the ornamental figures. Make eyelets over two 
threads of the material in each direction. 

Finish edge with a plain hem adding a little open design four threads inside of the hem 
as shown. 

Fig. 25. CENTER PIECE on page 13. For details see Fig. 32. 

Made on cream Congress canvas No. 826. For solid embroidery use No. 5 White 
T. B. C. Coton Perle ; for weaving and open work use No. f^3'^ Eleo Perle Hardanger 
Twist. Begin with solid embroidery around the open work parts. Cut and draw out the 
threads of the canvas for the open work. The center square is filled with an open work 
ground as shown in Fig. 5. 

The small motif around the center is very handsome. Eight double threads of the can- 
va.s are cut and drawn in each direction, leaving four double threads of the material which 
are woven into bars. For the lace stitch work eight loop lace stitches, which, in a second 
round are collected in the center and are drawn up to form a ring. 

The piece is finished with a small open work hem. 

15 




Fig. 29. Shows details of Fig. 22 on page 13. 



16 




Fig. 30. Shows details of Fig. 23 on page 13. 
17 




Fig. 31. Shows details of Fig. 24 on page 13. 

Fig. 26. DRESSER SCARF IN PYRAMID DESIGN on page 13. For details see Fig. 33. 
Made on No. 825 white Hardanger canvas. For solid embroidery use No. 3 ; for weav- 
ing and open work use No. 1 P.yN'* Eleo Perle Hardanger Twist. Begin by making the 
solid part in the center of the octagon; then the solid embroidery around the open work 
parts. In the two large open work motifs cut eight double threads of the canvas between 
each four double threads which are left for weaving of the bars. The eyelets are worked 
over two threads of the canvas in each direction. The scarf is finished with a hem. edged 
with small ornamental stitches. 

Fig. 34. SERVING CLOTH on page 21. For details see Fig. 39. 

This is made on white mercerized Hardanger canvas No. 6568. For solid embroidery 
use No. 5 T. B. C. Coton Perle ; for weaving and open work use No. 1 P^J^'i Eleo Perle 
Hardanger Twist. Begin with the solid embroidery around the open work parts. Cut 
and draw out the threads of the canvas for the open work; then make the ornamental 
stitches. The edge is finished with a narrow open work hem. 

This design is also very practical for curtains made on cream Congress canvas No. 826, 

Fig. 35. TEA CLOTH on page 21. For details see Figs. 40 and 41. 

Made on mercerized Hardanger canvas No. 6568. For solid embroidery use No. 3 ; 
for weaving use No. 1 pUN'i Eleo Perle Hardanger Twist. Begin with solid work around 
the open work parts. Cut and draw out the threads of the material. 

The ornamental stitches in the border are made alternately with a small group of cross 
stitches and an arrow star. After making scallops finish the edge with a fine buttonhole 
stitch of Nun's Eleo Perle No. 1. 

18 




Fig. 32. Shows details for Fig. 25 on page 13. 



Fig. 36. STAND COVER on page 21. For details see Fig. 42. 

Made on Hardanger canvas No. 824. For solid embroidery use No. 3: for weaving use 
No. 1 iHUN's Eleo Perle Hardanger Twist. Begin with solid work around the open work 
parts. Cut and draw the threads of the canvas. 

The edge is finished with a narrow hem. 

Fig. 37. TRAY CLOTH on page 21. For details see Fig. 43. 

Made on mercerized Hardanger canvas No. 8755. For solid embroidery use No. 3 ; for 
weaving and open work use No. 1 Nun's Eleo Perle Hardanger Twist. Begin with solid 
embroidery around the open work for scallops; then make the ornamental stitches and 
narrow festoon stitches. 

The bars of the open work are made in the Hardanger weaving stitch except the cor- 
ners of outer edge which are made with a close buttonhole stitch. 

19 




Fig. 33. Shows details of Fig. 26 on page 13. 

20 







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Fig. 34 




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For full size illustrations of details see pages 22, 23, 24 and 25. 

21 




Fig. 39. Shows details of Fig. 34 on page 21. 



Fig. 38. 
BORDER 

on page 21. 

For details see 

Fig. 44. 

Made on 
Hardanger can- 
vas No. 825 and 
can be inserted 
in any material 
desired. For 
solid embroid- 
ery us No. 3 ; 
for weaving and 
open work use 
No. Nun's 
Eleo Perle 
Hardanger 
Twist. Begin 
with solid em- 
broidery around 
the open work 
parts. Cut and 
draw the 
threads of the 
canvas. In the 
alternate motifs 
overcast bars 
are made ir. 
place of the 
usual woven 
bars. The fes- 
t o o n stitches 
and eyelets are 
used for orna- 
mentation. The 
edge is made in 
an open work 
design, using 
the overcasting 
stitch for the 
bars. 



Fig. 45. TEA CLOTH on page 26. For details see Fig. 51. 
Made on Hardanger canvas No. 824. For solid embroidery use No. 3; for weaving 
and open work use No. 1 Nun's Eleo Perle Hardanger Twist. Begin with solid embroidery 
around the open work parts. The festoon stitches are two parallel rows of half cross 
stitches. The scallops are made with ornamental stitches, edged with a fine buttonhole 
stitch made of No. Nun's Eleo Perle Hardanger Twist. 

Fig. 46. LAMP SHADE on page 26. For details see Fig. 52. 
Made on No. 827 linen color Congress canvas. Begin with the solid embroidery around 
open work parts. Cut and draw out the threads of the canvas for the open work. Use 
Saxonia embroidery floss in the desired colors for ornamental and weaving stitches. 

Fig. 47. PLATE DOILY FOR LUNCHEON SET on page 26. For details see Fig. 53. 
Made on white Hardanger canvas No. 824. Begin with solid embroidery around the 
open work parts: then make a row of buttonhole stitches in white T. B. C. Coton Perle 
No. 5, leaving two threads of the canvas between each stitch. Through these stitches draw 
a straight line in any color desired. Then make three rows of cross stitches over six threads 
of the canvas in white T. B. C. Coton Perle No. 5. crossing each in the center with the 
desired color. Finish the edge with a buttonhole stitch, the same as the inner row. Then 
fringe the canvas one inch. 



22 



Fig. 40 
shows 
details 

of 
Fig. 35 

on 
Page 21. 





Fig. 41 
shows 
details 

of 
Fig. 35 

on 
Page 21. 




Fig. 42. Shows details of Fig. 36 on page 21. 



24 



Fig. 43. Shows details of Fig. 37 on page 21. 




Fig. 44. Shows details of Fig. 38 on page 21. 

25 




For full size illustrations of details see pages 27, 28, 29, 30 and 31. 

26 




Fig. 51. Shows details of Fig. 45 on page 26. 



27 



Fig. 52 
shows 
details 

of 
Fig. 46 

on 
Page 26. 





Fig. 53 
shows 
details 

of 
Fig. 47 

on 
Page 26. 



28 




Fig. 54. Shows details of Fig. 48 on page 26. 



Fig. 48. ROUND CENTERPIECE on page 26. For details see Fig. 54. 

Begin with the sohd Embroidery around the openwork parts which are embroidered 
with white T. B. C. Coton Perle No. 3. Cut and draw out the threads of the canvas for the 
open work and weave the bars with P.yN'i; Eleo Perle No. 1. 

The wreath is a combination of cross stitch and solid embroidery made in colors desired 
with No. 2 rl.UN'5i Boilproof Embroidery Floss. 

The edge is a button hole stitch, finished with a loop stitch. This centerpiece can be 
made on either Hardanger canvas No. 4498 or white Congress canvas No. 1313. 




Fig. 55. Shows details of Fig. 49 on page 25. 

Fig. 49. CUSHION on page 26. For details see Fig. 55. 
Made on Hardanger canvas No. 825. For solid embroidery use No. 3 ; for weaving and 
openwork use No. f.UN'i; Eleo Perle Hardanger Twist. Begin with solid Embroidery 
around the openwork parts. Cut and draw out the threads of the material for the openwork. 
Weave the four straight bars until the center of the fourth bar is made, then insert a thread 
through center of all the bars, forming a circle. Cover the inserted threads with a close but- 
tonhole stitch. Then finish weaving the fourth bar. The triangles are made by making first 
stitch over two double threads of the canvas and adding one double thread for each stitch 
until five stitches are made, then drop a double thread for each stitch until the last stitch is 
over two threads of the canvas asrain. 



Fig. 50. WORK BAG on page 26. For details see Fig. 56. 
Made on linen color Congress canvas No. 827. For solid embroidery use Saxonia em- 
broidery thread in colors desired; for weaving use No. 5 Silver Grey T. B. C. Coton Perle. 
Finish the top of the bag with woven bars and close buttonhole stitches in the corners. Make 
two rows of woven bars to draw cord through. 

30 




Fig 56. Shows details of Fig. 50 on page 26. 

Figures 57 and 58. TABLE SCARFS on page 32. For details see Figures 59 and 60. 
Made on No. 827 linen colored Congress canvas. For solid embroidery use Saxonia em- 
broidery thread in colors desired; for weaving use No. 5 Silver Grey T. B. C. Coton Perle. 
Begin with the solid embroidery around openwork parts. Cut and draw threads of the can- 
vas for the openwork. The openwork parts are made of plain woven bars. Finish edges 
with a narrow hem. 



Fig. 61. BEDSPREAD 
on page 34. 

For details see Figs. 
62 and 63. 

Made on fancy cream 
Congress canvas No. 
827. For solid em- 
broidery use No. 3 ; for 
weaving use No. 1 
Nun's Eleo Perle Har- 
danger Twist. Begin 
"with the solid embroid- 
ery around the open- 
work parts, then cut 
and draw out the 
threads of the canvas 
for the open work. 
Finish the ends of the 
spread in an openwork 
hem and the sides with 
a scallop. 



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32 




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36 



TBCr-) 

. lO GR. 



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T. B. C. COTON PERLE 

Highly mercerized soft finish crochet cotton. The best for crocheting 
laces for Towels and Bed Spreads, making Slippers and all those attractive 
articles which it is desirable to make of a soft lustrous cotton in a variety 
of beautiful shades and appropriate sizes. 

No. 8. — Illustration shows exact size of ball. Made in white, pink, light 
blue, delft blue, silver grey, lavender and yellow. 






SNS 



No. 5. — Made in 7/10 oz., balls as shown at left in the 
following colors: white, silver grey, pink, light blue, 
delft blue, lavender and yellow. Also made in 1 6/10 oz., 
balls same size as No. 3, illustrated below, in white, ecru, 
silver grey, pink, light blue and delft blue. 







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The trade mark T. B. C. 
stands for the highest 
quality, best value and 
most satisfactory service 
in crochet cottons. The 
trade maurk ^UH*6 *"«P" 
resents the same high 
standards in embroidery 
threads. 



T. B. C. CORDONNET SPECIAL 
CROCHET COTTON 

Mercerized 6 cord crochet thread made of highest 
grade selected cotton — renowned for its perfect twist. 
Positively unexcelled for quality, uniformity and beauty 
of shades. Regulation large size balls (7/10 oz. each.) 

White in »i««, 3, 5, 10, IS, 20, 30, 40, SO, 60, 70, 80 and 100 

Ecru " " 3, 5, 10, IS, 30, 50 and 70 

Linen color " 3, 5, 10, 20, 30. 50 and 70 
Sizes 3, 10, 30, 50 and 70 are also made in 2 shades 
of pink, 2 shades of light blue, delft blue and lavender. 
Yellow can be had in sizes 30, 50 and 70. 

SAXONIA CORDONNET CROCHET COTTON 

Six cord. Sizes and their respective yardages are as follows: No. 30, 
50 yards in a ball— Nos. 40 and 50, 65 yards each— Nos. 60 and 70, 85 yards 
each. All sizes in white, Nos. 30, 50 and 70 also made in pink, light blue, 
delft blue, lavender and yellow. The most economical to use for the large 
variety of articles that do not require as much crochet cotton as is con- 
tained in the regulation large ball. Where a greater amount of cotton is 
required it is most economical to buy the largest ball that is made viz., the 
T. B. C. Cordonnet. 



No. 3. — Illustration shows 
exact size. Made in white, 
cream, ecru, silver grey, 
pink, light blue, delft blue, 
dark blue, grey and black. 







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